As I had experienced in Florence, the only people out and about were street sweepers (literally, with brooms made from sturdy reeds) and shop keepers setting up. Finally found a bar that was open and had my cafe.
I was amazed when I reached the Accademia a few minutes before it opened. There was NO ONE in line. I literally had the entire museum to myself, and even an hour later, there were very few people. Venetian art is far more dramatic than the art of the same time period from Florence. There was also a special show of Titian's works that are usually located in other museums.
I then visited the lovely La Salute Church "Our Lady of Health" dedicated to Mary. During the terrible plague of 1630, it is believed that she was responsible for the fact that only 1 out of 3 Venetians died -- a ratio not true in any other area of Italy.
Then, ahhhhh, enough of gothic, medieval, renaissance art and artifacts -- a welcome change of pace at the Peggy Guggenheim's Collection. Fabulous Calder, Picasso, Pollock, Tanguy, Ernst, etc.
At the Doges Palace, I was overloaded with the wealth displayed -- solid gold ceilings, HUGE "senate" chambers. Also, an armory of ornate swords, shields, and a chastity belt that, ouch!!!! -- you guys don't want to know...
Then took a very good guided walking tour of Venice -- learned that it was originally 218 islands in a swamp populated by refugees; over time, the forest on the mainland was cut down, and most of the city is built on tree trunks that have petrified over the centuries. Venice' architecture was strongly influenced by artists from Constantinople, which was influenced by Baghdad, the other major trading post. As Venice' strength as a trading area declined, it became the Las Vegas of Europe and carnivale lasted 6 months (and many people wore masks throughout carnivale, so what happened in Venice, stayed in Venice). The first woman to ever receive a University degree (in 1646) was from Venice. The wealthy Venetians were big on charities (to avoid hell or purgatory), including a charity that took care of people who committed capital crimes, making sure they received spiritual help and their families received financial help. Until the late 1800's, fresh water was only from rainfall collected in cisterns -- polluting the canals or cisterns was a capital crime. The Church and the doges (rulers) of Venice had a strained relationship with a great deal of political shenanigans between the two.
St. Mark's Basilica is overwhelmingly ornate and has a distinct secular feel to it. Again, Venice was a republic, and it appears its main church was more to display its power and wealth rather than pay respects to the saint's remains.
I then enjoyed a delicious dinner with fresh bass baked with vegetables -- yum!...and for desert, fresh berries (one kind I've never seen in the US that tastes like a very sweet cranberry) over some dreamy gelato. You would think with all the walking I've done, I would come home with a svelte figure -- but I've made up for all the exercise by consuming more carbs in one day than I usually do in a week -- the dolci and pane and pasta of Italy is just too good to resist!
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